Plume breathes new life into community favorite

Der Rathskeller was a North End staple for 90 years. What started out as a sausage shop and delicatessen in 1931 at 1132 Auburn St. eventually evolved to include a bar, restaurant and outdoor beer garden.

Beginning in 2016, though, the restaurant went through three ownership changes before closing for good in October, 2021, unable to survive the COVID-19 pandemic.

In June, the property sprung back to life as Plume under the direction of husband-wife duo Lia Pennacchi and Chase Williams. The two know the Rockford restaurant scene well. They started working together when Williams was the executive chef at Social Urban Bar & Restaurant in downtown Rockford.

For those who remember Der Rathskeller, Plume is a bit of a change. It's much brighter with an upscale decor and pricing. It's also an Italian restaurant - but with a slight twist. The cuisine is northern Italian - the Pennacchis' heritage traces back to northern Italy - and the food has Austrian and German influences. So there's still that little tie to Der Rathskeller.

My sister and I stopped in to try it out on Halloween, even sitting next to a couple dressed as a British king and queen. One thing to note. You will not be offered a menu. There are QR codes to scan to find the drink and food menus. They will bring you one if you ask. The goal of Plume is to change the menu regularly as produce is in season without having to routinely print new menus.

We split a small plate, the tigelle. That came on a wooden board and included thin biscuits that you slice to make small sandwiches stuffed with mortadella (thin slices of Italian sausage), coppa picante (cured pork), pesto Modenese (a spread made of cured pork fat, garlic and rosemary) and blueberry preserves. For one, that would have been a meal in and of itself.

We also split the Eickman's beef tenderloin, which was an 8-oz filet placed on top of potatoes cooked with onions and balsamic vinegar. The steak was so tender it seemed to melt in your mouth and the potatoes were sweet almost like sweet potatoes.

We plan on going back to check out the bar and desserts on another day. On the night we went, it had Nutella Pot de Creme (hazelnut butter, chocolate and Frangelico whipped cream) and Tiramasu on the menu.

Plume is a welcome addition to the North Main-Auburn corridor that also features the Norwegian at 1402 N. Main St. You should put both on your restaurant rotation.